all pupils at a Public School one expected sooner or later to be caned, one dreaded
the moment only knowing by rumour and ear what it would be like. Public caning
was not practiced very often.|
I was introduced to the cane in the late
1050's when our Form Master lost it and decided to cane the whole class. I remember
as if it was yesterday when it came to my turn to bend over and touch my tows.
The surprise that it didn't hurt very much, that was untill about 20 seconds later
when I was back at my desk, I was aware of the sudden appearance of an erection
in my trousers and a sharp pain throbbing from my bottom up my spine, it was not
unpleasant but it did hurt!
Like the others at break I went to the lavatory
to look at the damage, I could feel the lump of the single stripe and could just
see the classic twin tracks of deep red with white in between, by tea time they
would be dark blue as the bruise developed. Later just grinding my buttocks into
the desk seat where the bruise was would produce an erection.
time was memorable if only for the occasion, It was in gym by our second gym master
a Turk who was a brute and strong, the pain was much greater the single stroke
having been laid on especially hard through only my shorts and with great accuracy,
the "mark" took five weeks to go away.
The next time was rather
more serious. Two of us were in trouble and told by the master a Physics Master
called Hancock (I'll never forget him) to report to the First Aid Room which doubled
as an execution chamber! WE knew we were going to be caned and Hancock's reputation
went before him! He arrived carrying the standard senior school can between 3/8"
& 1./2" thick straight and made from rattan cane. The other boy (David
Brett) went in first and after some talking a brief silence and then the
whistle of the cane and the "thwack as it hit the target" Repeated four
times! David came out looking white but walking! Then it was my turn, "bend
down" some fumbling as he hitched up my jacket and felt to ensure I hadn't
put on any padding like extra pants or gym shorts, he pulled up my shirt tail
which I had carefully pulled right down. "Four and don't move!" Then
swish crack thump as the first stroke hit home, not too bad, but I spoke too soon
at about ten second intervals, and by the time he'd laid on the fourth my bottom
was really thumping! The usual erection was by now showing.
He then left
the room with me and told us both to report to the matron after school.
I went straight after teas and Matron was expecting me, she was a very neat 20
year old assistant matron.
She made me take off my trousers and lay down on
the couch in the room, she rubbed in some cream and told me to turn over. Why?
I turned over and there she was naked. She pounced on me and took me into her
very quickly and went at it, demanding that I then come on top of her, the ejaculation
was a blessed relief, and it's no wonder that I got a taste for being caned!
Which in turn lent me to get taste for being caned as an adult.
So here are a few facts about it and what to use and how to do it:
This is probably the implement most associated with Corporal Punishment. There
is something very emotive about this traditional, English disciplinary tool.
Part of the cane's mysticism is the ritual and theatre associated with its application
which is as much about psychological torment and fear as it is the actual beating.
Making the condemned wait, sometimes hours or days in anticipation. The flexing
of the rod as a scolding takes place. Then, finally, the rite itself: having the
reprobate bent over a desk, or a chair, or perhaps touching their toes..
Traditionally administered in half dozen batches ominously referred to as 'six
of the best'. Caning is an art that involves more than the technical ability to
apply an accurate stroke.. The best types of cane to use are those that come from
the climbing palm or rattan family as these have a flexible stem. There are enormous
varieties of rattans, with innumerable differing qualities. The most popular varieties
for making a punishment cane are Kooboo, Dragon, Palambang and Malacca.
No two canes are ever identical, as they are natural products, grown, not manufactured.
There are an endless variety of rattans. Thickness, flexibility, curvature, colouring
and surface finish all vary. Often canes are named and graded by their increased
length and thickness: Junior Cane 8mm diameter, Senior Cane 10mm and Reformatory
Cane 12mm plus. Lengths usually range from 30in to 36in. Most standard canes are
made from Kooboo. For more serious punishments try a Dragon cane as the rattan
is denser and slightly stiffer than Kooboo. It also has a very smooth surface
which helps it fly through the air faster. Another heavier implement is the ferrule
originally a Victorian walking cane made from the very thick and heavy rattan
Malacca. I have come across so-called 'fibre-glass' canes and 'dressage or show'
canes (canes covered with leather), which are not really canes at all, both are
very severe implements that I would suggest only advanced players consider using.
Probably the fiercest canes are those used for Singapore judicial punishments,
made from stripped manner rattan they are approximately 15mm thick and 50 inches
Crook or Straight Handle?
So why do canes have crook
handles? I have to say I'm not exactly sure, as I have found lots of different
explanations. One being that originally walking canes were used to beat people
with so the crook handle is just a remnant of this. I have also read that the
crook was used to stop the cane slipping out of the hands during a vigorous thrashing.
The crook was also used to hang the cane up so it would be a constant reminder
to errant young children. Well the crook handle is certainly associated with the
school cane. I don't think the handle makes much of a difference to the cane,
many people just have a personal preference. Some straight canes have some kind
of added handle, which does make them easier to use.
Short or long &
thick or thin Canes come in a huge variety of lengths and thickness. I would suggest
that a beginner uses a short, lightweight cane. The longer the cane the more swing,
the greater the arc, equaling a more painful stroke. Remember the longer the cane
the more difficult it is to control. The weight of the cane changes the
and intensity of the stroke. The thinner the cane the more 'stingy' and biting
it feels. While thicker canes are heavier, more 'thumpy' and tend to bruise the
skin. With more weight they penetrate more deeply.
Caning is probably one of the most revered of the disciplinary arts taking some
time to perfect. A perfect cane stroke needs a minimum amount of effort, you don't
have to throw your whole body into it. In fact the greatest accuracy is achieved
with the minimum variation of movement. This is probably one of the reasons as
to why the cane is such a favored disciplinary tool. The stature and strength
of the disciplinarian is immaterial as it is one's technique that is all-important
(the cane is certainly a great equalizer for women). always use full force blows
you'll only fluff it if you "pull" the stroke!
There are two
different techniques to caning someone. Firstly with a 'wrist only' movement and
secondly, with an 'arm and wrist' movement. I would suggest that beginners
(and when caning in an area with limited space/height) should always use the wrist
movement. It is also the stroke I prefer to use as it has a greater degree of
accuracy. Hold the cane in your hand, tuck your elbow into your body and using
only your lower arm, use a fast wrist motion to flick the cane at the target.
If you cane without moving your wrist you cannot get any speed into the motion
of the stroke or that lovely 'swish' noise, as you are not really using the flexibility
of the cane.
The 'arm and wrist' movement involves lifting up and bringing
down your arm, putting the force of your shoulder behind the stroke, finishing
the stroke with the wrist movement. The arm can move either up or out for this
motion. Make sure you practice the movement and measure the stroke lots of times
before beginning the punishment because with this technique it is easy to be inaccurate.
If you have never caned someone before try holding the cane about a third of the
way in, this makes it shorter, less flexible and easier to control. As you gain
confidence move your hand out until eventually you are holding it at the end.
striking the bottom you can either follow through with a stroke that leaves the
cane firmly planted on the buttocks or allow the cane to bounce back and lift
away from the area. Following through will make the stroke more painful and 'thumpy',
this is because you are passing on all the kinetic energy of the stroke into the
buttocks. While lifting off does not dump as much energy onto the area.
Where should you aim for?
A proper cane stroke is really best suited
for use on the fleshy buttocks. It can be used on other parts of the body but
I suggest using a very short lightweight cane, with a building tapping motion.
I would suggest that beginners aim to keep the tip of the cane in the middle of
the furthest cheek. Once you are more confident keep the tip about two inches
in from the outer edge of the bottom. ) Beware of over-shooting the target. Often
when caning you can measure the stroke but will then over shoot this mark when
putting your power behind the stroke. The highest cut should be just below the
cleft of the buttocks and the lowest just along the crease where the bottom meets
One of the main mistakes that people make when using a
cane is to deliver the strokes all on the same spot. There should be a succession
of cane stripes up and down the entire buttocks. I love to see a caned bottom
with six evenly placed lines across it each about an inch apart. So try to cane
the entire bottom, don't just hope to hit anywhere. Practice high and low shots.
Even experienced players can miss-hit sometimes but remember - if you are
not that experienced start with medium or light strokes so that they will not
cause too much damage if you do miss.
I think that where you stand in relation
to the recipient while administrating the caning is one of the most important
factors. Where you stand determines the angle the cane will hit the bottom. If
you are too forward or behind the target the angle will be too great and result
in one buttock receiving a heavy punishment and the other side none at all. Use
the lines you are leaving on the bottom as a guide to how well you are balancing
the strokes. The perfect stroke lands flat, that is parallel to the buttocks just
before it lands. Thereby transferring the stroke's power equally onto each cheek.
Before the prevalence of the cane the most popular implement was of course
the birch. However the cane fitted in well with the Victorian ideals of modesty
it could be easily used over the clothes with very little loss of intensity.
So the cane is one of the few implements that can be particularly effective
over clothes. Canings over tight skirts, jeans, shorts and thick panties are all
popular. If you want to indulge in a heavy caning session but don't want to be
marked some practitioners recommend wearing layers of thick knickers or laying
a folded wet towel over the buttocks. It will prevent marks, yet still allows
much of the intensity of the punishment to come through. These are also useful
for a dominant that wants to really thrash away at their partner.
way to dish out a punishment of a half dozen strokes is that of the 'Five-Barred
Gate', a 'six-of-the-best' with one very important, singular variation - the sixth
cane stroke is delivered at a roughly 45° angle slicing diagonally across the
previous five strokes. Its purpose is to 'link' the weal's into what appears to
be, as you may have guessed, a 'gate.' That last cane stroke is, as is traditional,
the hardest, and "opens up" the previously inflicted welts.
Buying a cane:
Look for a cane that is straight and smooth. It
should either be cut so there are no knuckles or they should have been sanded
down. It should be flexible - not too stiff and not uncontrollable. Never make
the mistake of buying bamboo from a garden center as it is completely unsuitable
for beating soft tissue as it is inflexible, it splits and splinters easily and
can cut the skin. If you want to buy a truly authentic quality cane I would recommend
ordering one from a specialist.
Canes are made from natural reed
with their own moisture content and so will stiffen and become brittle as they
dry out over time. This will make them more prone to snap. The best place to keep
your canes is in a nice humid bathroom to prevent them drying out. The worst place
is near radiators and central heating, as this will considerably shorten their
lifespan. If soiled, canes may be washed with soapy water (also alcohol or household
bleach if blood is present). You can then wipe them with a wax based furniture
polish that will help to preserve both the surface seal and their appearance.
Periodically you can help your canes remain supple by standing them in a shallow
bowl containing a wet sponge. To straighten out any kinks you can soak your canes
in a bath of cold water overnight - be aware it will also straighten out crook
handles so secure them with an elastic band first. (Note: you cannot soak oiled
or varnished canes.) It is also possible to stand your canes in a light, non-viscous
oil, such as Linseed oil for 24hrs, this will not only help keep your canes flexible
but also add weight to them. The canes used at my school used to have lead shot
glued into a hole drilled into the ends!